Mylapore, Chennai: Temples, Food and Where to Stay
Mylapore is older than Chennai itself. Long before the British built Fort St George, this was a temple town and a port, and it still runs on temple time: bells at dawn, jasmine sellers on the Mada streets, filter coffee in steel tumblers. If you have one morning in Chennai, spend it here.
In this guide
Mylapore at a glance
| Best for | Temples, old Chennai, classic South Indian breakfast |
|---|---|
| Time needed | A full morning; a whole day if you add the seven temples |
| Best hours | 6–11 am and after 4:30 pm (temples close in the afternoon) |
| Getting there | Thirumayilai (Mylapore) MRTS station, or an auto / cab from anywhere central |
| Next door | Marina Beach, Triplicane, Alwarpet, Santhome |
Kapaleeshwarar Temple — the heart of it all
Everything in Mylapore circles the Kapaleeshwarar Temple. Shiva is worshipped here as Kapaleeswarar and the goddess as Karpagambal. The legend that gives the whole area its name is told here: the goddess worshipped Shiva in the form of a peahen, a mayil, and Mayil-ai became Mylapore.
The painted east gopuram, close to 40 metres tall, is the one on every postcard. Walk around to the west side for the view most visitors miss: the great temple tank, its stepped banks and the gopuram reflected in the water. The present temple dates largely from the 16th century; tradition holds that an older shrine stood nearer the shore.
Shoes are left at the counter by the entrance, and modest dress is expected. Photography is not allowed inside the sanctum. The busiest and most beautiful time is the ten-day Panguni Peruvizha festival in March–April, when the Arupathimoovar procession carries the 63 Nayanmar saints through the Mada streets. In the Tamil month of Thai (January–February) the deities are floated on the tank during the Teppam. Check our festival calendar and the daily panchangam for this year's dates.
The Sapta Sthanam: seven Shiva temples in one morning
Mylapore holds a tradition few visitors hear about. Seven ancient Shiva temples, the Sapta Sthanam, sit within a few kilometres of each other, and devotees visit all seven in a single day. By auto it takes a relaxed morning:
- Kapaleeshwarar — the principal temple, by the tank
- Karaneeswarar — on Bazaar Road, a short walk away
- Virupaksheeswarar — a quiet shrine in the lanes
- Valeeswarar — linked to the legend of Vali from the Ramayana
- Velleeswarar — associated with Shukra (Venus); many come for eye ailments
- Malleeswarar — small, old and usually peaceful
- Theerthapaleeswarar — just north, towards Triplicane
Most of the smaller temples open early and close around noon, so start by 7 am. Tell your auto driver "Sapta Sthanam" and many will know the route; agree the fare for the whole loop first.
Two more shrines worth a stop: the Mundakakanni Amman Temple, whose sanctum is still covered with a thatched roof, and the Thiruvalluvar Temple, which marks the tradition that the poet of the Thirukkural was born in Mylapore. The Shirdi Sai Baba Temple draws large crowds on Thursdays.
Churches, the Math and more
San Thome Basilica, at the sea end of Mylapore, stands over the tomb traditionally held to be that of St Thomas the Apostle. It is often described as one of only three churches in the world built over the tomb of an apostle. The white neo-Gothic building you see today was completed in the 1890s; there is a small museum and a tomb chapel below.
Luz Church (Our Lady of Light) dates from the early 16th century and is among the oldest churches in the city. The busy junction outside, Luz Corner, is named after it.
The Sri Ramakrishna Math on Ramakrishna Math Road has been here since the 1890s. Its Universal Temple, open to all faiths, is calm and spotless, and the evening arati is worth timing a visit around.
For shopping, the four Mada streets around the temple sell brass lamps, pooja items, flower garlands and kolam powder. Bookshops and music shops on the streets nearby stock devotional books and Carnatic recordings.
Where to eat
Mylapore is the home of the mess: small, no-frills canteens that serve one style of food extremely well. Timings are short and dishes sell out, so go early.
- Karpagambal Mess, facing the temple — known for adai-avial, rava dosa and filter coffee.
- Rayar's Mess — a tiny, much-loved breakfast place for idli, pongal and vada. Mornings only.
- Jannal Kadai — literally "window shop": bajjis handed out through a window in the evening.
- Kalathi Rose Milk, near the temple — the cold rose milk every Chennai family remembers.
For more, see our neighbourhood food guide.
Music season and festivals
In December and early January, during the Tamil month of Margazhi, Chennai hosts the December Music Season, one of the largest classical music festivals in the world. Hundreds of Carnatic concerts and dance recitals run in the sabhas of Mylapore and neighbouring Alwarpet, including the Music Academy on TTK Road and the Mylapore Fine Arts Club. Many morning concerts are free. Canteens run by famous caterers inside the sabhas are part of the tradition.
In January the Mylapore Festival takes over the streets around the tank with kolam contests, heritage walks, food stalls and free performances. If you are visiting from abroad over the holidays, this is the best time of year to be in Mylapore.
Where to stay
Mylapore itself has few large hotels; most rooms are small hotels, guesthouses and serviced apartments. Many visitors stay a few minutes away along Dr Radhakrishnan Salai or in Alwarpet, or in Nungambakkam for more choice. For how Mylapore compares with other areas, see where to stay in Chennai.
See hotels in and around Mylapore on Booking.com →
Practical tips
- Temple hours: most temples open around 5:30–6 am, close from about noon to 4 pm, and reopen until about 9 pm. Hours shift on festival days, so check at the gate.
- Dress: shoulders and knees covered. Carry socks if you mind hot stone floors at midday.
- Traffic: the lanes are narrow and parking is scarce. Take an auto or cab and get dropped at the temple. Metro construction is ongoing in the area, so expect diversions.
- Auspicious timing: many families time temple visits around Rahu Kalam. The daily panchangam shows it for Chennai and 12 other cities.